woodstove catalytic combustors

How can I tell if a woodstove is EPA-certified?

2012-01-26T14:49:00.002-05:00

All certified woodstoves offered for sale will have a permanent and a temporary label indicating that the stoves are EPA-certified. The temporary label will also contain information that you will find useful when shopping for a new stove.

The label will tell you generally how clean and how efficient each woodstove is. However, because regulations require all new stoves to burn much cleaner and more efficiently than unregulated woodstoves, there should not be significant differences in efficiency and emissions performance among the certified catalytic models. This holds true for the non-catalytic models as well.

The label will also indicate which stoves are equipped with catalytic combustors.

Perhaps the most important information on the label you will need when selecting a stove is the heat output range. Use this information to help select the right size stove for the space you will be heating.

Sample temporary labels:

Why does the U.S. EPA regulate woodstoves?

2012-01-23T14:40:00.002-05:00

Residential woodstoves are one of the nation's largest sources of particulate matter (smoke). Wood smoke also contains significant amounts of carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons, and many other organic compounds. These pollutants are known to cause respiratory and cardiovascular illness and contribute to atmospheric visibility problems and property damage. The EPA regulations require woodstove manufacturers to produce stoves that emit less pollution.
As consumers replace their older woodstoves with cleaner, more efficient, new stoves, the quality of the air will improve, particularly in residential neighborhoods where wood burning stoves are popular.

Click on the picture for a larger view

Be sure and ask your local stove dealer about the high efficient, clean burning catalytic stoves and watch for my future articles on "Buying an EPA-Certified Woodstove"

Why catalytic stoves are required to have lower emission limits?

2012-01-19T14:29:00.001-05:00

It is best stated in the 1988 September issue, of one of the industry's leading magazines and I quote word for word from the article:

The article reads:
The EPA is on record stating catalytics represent the "best demonstrated technology" the industry has today. In other words, it's the federal agency's policy that combustors are the best solution to the wood smoke problem.
The EPA points to the following factors:
-More than 60 manufacturers use combustors in their stove designs.
-Catalytics deteriorate, but the EPA figures consumers can expect to squeeze more than 10,000 hours out of the combustor.
The deterioration of combustors is an improvement point, because the agency compared the lifetime performance of catalyst and non-catalyst units.
They note that catalytics burn cleaner than non-cats during a stove’s early years.
However, the emissions put out by a catalytic stove increases as the combustor ages. Both types of units burn about as clean, when averaged over the lifetime of the stoves, according to the EPA.
(end of article)

This is why the EPA's Phase I and Phase II emission limits, on wood burning stoves, are set the way they are.
However, catalytic stove technology has came a long way since this article was written.
Catalytic stove designs have changed since 1988. The catalytic combustor is now well protected from firebox flames in all catalytic stove models.

I would like to add this comment:
I have talked to consumers over the years, that had catalytic units that held up for 10 to 15 years and were still working on the day they called me.
Easy to see why FIRECAT combustors are offered to consumers with a 6 year prorated warranty from the date they buy a new catalytic stove.

A few more related comments:
1. FIRECAT catalytic combustors are made of high temperature, honeycomb ceramic and will take up to 2400 degrees F. before they reach, what I call a glazing point. Naturally, the stove will never reach this kind of operating temperature to destroy the combustor. They are durable and hold up well under proper operating methods.
Flame impingement and thermal shock, not normal operating methods, can be another story altogether. This will be addressed at a later date.

2. FIRECAT combustors are coated with noble metals that act as the catalyst. They never go away or wear out. Only ageing, abuse or improper operating of the stove will stop them from doing their job.

3. FIRECAT combustors can save the stove owner a lot of money over the years.
Consider fuel costs alone. (as much as 1 less cord out of every 3)
By burning low, they will save on fuel costs and best of all with no sacrifice of BTU output.
The FIRECAT combustor will produce temperatures that are at least twice that of the firebox. Therefore, they don't need high flames in the firebox to produce heat to keep warm.
Check out the catalytic stove's efficiency and do some comparing.

Standards for particulate matter emissions under the EPA’s Phase II Program

2012-01-16T14:12:00.001-05:00

Unless exempted under §60.530 of the U.S. EPA Federal Register, each wood burning appliance manufactured on or after July 1, 1990, or sold at retail on or after July 1, 1992, shall comply with the following particulate matter emission limits as determined by the test methods and procedures in §60.534 of the U.S. EPA Federal Register:

A wood burning stove equipped with a catalytic combustor shall not discharge into the atmosphere any gases which contain particulate matter in excess of a weighted average of 4.1 g/hr (0.009 lb/hr).

A wood burning stove not equipped with a catalytic combustor shall not discharge into the atmosphere any gases which contain particulate matter in excess of a weighted average of 7.5 g/hr or (0.017 lb/hr).

Wood burning appliances exempt from EPA certification 2012

2012-01-12T14:06:00.000-05:00

(Subject to future changes)
1. Stoves built by U.S. manufacturers for export and not sold in the United States.
2. Boilers. (Certification program to start in March of 2008)
3. Furnaces.
4. Cook stoves.
5. Stoves for coal burning only.
6. A wood heater built for research and development purposes.
(No to be sold and no more than 50 per model)

Definitions of appliances exempt from EPA certification…

Boiler…Boiler means a solid fuel burning appliance used primarily for heating spaces, other than the space where the appliance is located, by the distribution through pipes of a gas or fluid heated in the appliance. The appliance must be tested and listed as a boiler under accepted American or Canadian safety testing codes. A manufacturer may request an exemption in writing from the Administrator by stating why the testing and listing requirement is not practicable and by demonstrating that his appliance is otherwise a boiler.

Furnaces… Furnace means a solid fuel burning appliance that is designed to be located outside of ordinary living areas and that warms spaces other than the space where the appliance is located, by the distribution of air heated in the appliance through ducts. The appliance must be tested and listed as a furnace under accepted American or Canadian safety testing codes unless exempted from this provision by the Administrator. A manufacturer may request an exemption in writing from the Administrator by stating why the testing and listing requirement is not practicable and by demonstrating that his appliance is otherwise a furnace.

Cook stoves… Cook stove means a wood-fired appliance that is designed primarily for cooking food and that has the following characteristics:
(1) An oven, with a volume of 0.028 cubic meters (1 cubic foot) or greater, and an oven rack,
(2) A device for measuring oven temperatures,
(3) A flame path that is routed around the oven,
(4) A shaker grate,
(5) An ash pan,
(6) An ash clean-out door below the oven, and
(7) The absence of a fan or heat channels to dissipate heat from the appliance.

Coal burning heater… Coal-only heater means an enclosed, coal-burning appliance capable of space heating, or domestic water heating, which has all of the following characteristics:
(1) An opening for emptying ash that is located near the bottom or the side of the appliance,
(2) A system that admits air primarily up and through the fuel bed,
(3) A grate or other similar device for shaking or disturbing the fuel bed or power-driven mechanical stoker,
(4) Installation instructions that state that the use of wood in the stove, except for coal ignition purposes, is prohibited by law, and
(5) The model is listed by a nationally recognized safety-testing laboratory for use of coal only, except for coal ignition purposes.

What are the advantages of using a catalytic wood?

2012-01-09T13:57:00.000-05:00

An EPA Phase II
catalytic wood burning stove delivers 72% or better heating efficiency.
This means that 72% of the energy available in wood is delivered into the
surrounding living area.
In addition to the 72% heating efficiency, the catalytic wood burning
stoves of today:
1. Reduce air pollution by up to 90%.
2. Reduce creosote build-up. (Up to 90% reduction)
3. Generate up to 50% more useful heat from each log.
4. Generate longer burns per load.
5. Saves the consumer up to 1/3 on fuel cost. (One less cord out of every 3)

EPA Stove Phases defined:
Pre-Phase I stoves…These stoves could not be manufactured
after June 30, 1988.
However, stoves could be sold at retail level for two more years.
Phase I program…. went into effect on July 1, 1988 and was effective through
June 30, 1990.
Manufacturers could not build stoves after this dead-line.
Again, these stoves could be sold at retail level for two more years.
Phase II program… went into effect on July 1, 1990 and is effective still
today.
Manufacturers must re-certified all models every 5 years under the Phase II
program.

A New Era for the wood burning stoves

2012-01-05T13:34:00.000-05:00

In the early 1980’s, it was reported, better than 500 manufacturers were building wood burning stoves. Many were just one man operations, designing and building their stoves in the garages of their homes.
However, it wasn’t long before the Oregon DEQ and US EPA put a halt to just anyone building and selling wood burning stoves. New regulations, standards, and certification programs forced many of the smaller companies out of this type business. This was mainly because they could not meet the new regulations or could not afford the expense to comply. On the other hand, the larger stove manufacturers could afford the expense to comply and remained in business.
It was at this point in time, catalytic combustors played a major role in the survival of many stove manufacturers.

In 1988 one of the industry magazines published an article entitled “A NEW SEASON FOR WOODSTOVES”. Another article written by the US EPA entitled “EPA and You” talked favorably about catalytic combustors and stated, “Expect to see many more of these types of wood burning appliances in coming years”.

Another article published in the September issue, reported more than 120 wood burning stoves had been EPA certified and nearly two-thirds were catalytic units.
By the end of 1989, there were nearly 80 woodstove manufacturers certified to at least the EPA’s Phase I emissions program and 60% of these manufacturers had certified with catalytic wood burning appliances. Some of their catalytic models had emission ratings as low as 1.0 gph and 72% efficiency. The catalytic models had less fuel consumption and creosote reduction of up to 90%.
After June 30, 1990 stove manufacturers could no longer build the Phase I stoves and now had to build stoves to meet the EPA’s Phase II program.
Six months after the Phase II certification went into effect, roughly 70 woodstove manufacturers were already certified to the Phase II program.
Of these 70 stove manufacturers, 41 were certified with catalytic models. This was 58.6% of the stove manufacturers to this point in time. The 1990’s proved to be a super sales year for the manufacturers building catalytic stoves and the dealers selling them.
Throughout the decade magazines published articles about catalytic stoves and the catalytic combustors in them. Articles like, “Keeping Cats Purring”
Articles from dealers and chimney sweeps stating “it is important to remember, that people who buy catalytic products are generally those who are interested in the best possible performance and have greater heating needs” and a chimney sweep in the state of Washington saying, “In general, cats three to five years old are holding up well” and another sweep in North Carolina stating, “He hasn’t had a service call for a combustor during the two years he’s been servicing and selling EPA approved catalytic stoves”.
The catalytic wood burning appliances had established a place in the industry and in the hearts of the consumers using them.

History and the role of catalytic stoves.

2012-01-03T13:21:00.000-05:00

To best understand the role of the catalytic stove, we need to go back to the 1970’s when heating costs increased drastically.

It was reported back then … as you can see on this chart,
electric rates increased 215% in that decade,
oil prices increased 272%
and that natural gas increased 483%

To combat these cost increases, many homeowners switched to wood as a fuel for their heating needs.

After all, wood was in abundance and free in most parts of the country.
During this same period of time, hundreds of new stove companies began to spring up across the United States.
Bare in mind, there were no environmental regulations yet in place.

However, the advantages of burning wood did have some draw backs.

Early designed stoves produced…
-much wasted energy...
-harmful air pollution...
-and heavy amounts of creosote

It was in the early 1980’s that the catalytic combustor was found to be an ideal solution aimed at answering...... consumer, manufacturing and environmental problems.
When we stop and think about it, the catalytic combustor was actually a “green product before “green” became popular.

Happy New Year

2012-01-01T12:01:00.001-05:00

Happy New Year. I sincerely hope the new year will bring you much happiness and the best of health.

This year I plan to post a little differently than I have in the past. In the past I have made random topic postings. Starting tomorrow, I will begin posting articles on understanding catalytic combustors and catalytic stoves in a manner that will allow anyone to understand catalytic combustors and catalytic wood burning appliances from scratch. In other words, if you’re thinking about buying a new catalytic appliance, you will understand why they are such a good buy and you will also understand how simple they are to operate before ever owning one.

Why am I doing this? Because I have spent 24 years working with woodstove manufacturers, independent stove testing companies and with the U.S. EPA in the wood burning stove industry. I have spent the same period of time working with consumers, dealers and distributors as a sales engineer for Applied Ceramics Inc., the leading manufacturer of catalytic combustors for wood burning appliances. I am retired now and want to continue educating people on what I feel is the best heating value for their money. I too am a consumer and I want the truth when buying a product. I want the same for you and I have no reason to feed you false information, just the facts.

Please stay with me through the year as I post step by step articles every three days on understand everything you should know about catalytic wood burning.

Sincerely,
Tim Cork

How To Inspect the Chimney Flue

2011-12-30T11:18:00.001-05:00

Chimney flues, whether metal or clay lined or made from brick or stone, must be properly maintained to prevent smoke damage, carbon monoxide poisoning or even a house fire. The interior of the chimney should be inspected to make sure it is unblocked and free of excessive creosote buildup. The exterior should be inspected for cracks and inadequate flashing. Check that the damper is open before starting a fire.

During periods of disuse, it isn't uncommon for creatures to set up a home in a chimney. Birds, squirrels, raccoons, bees and wasps are the most common critters found in chimneys and their nests can block air flow from a fireplace. This will make it more difficult to start a fire and more importantly, it may cause smoke to flow into your home instead of up the chimney.

A chimney cap will help to keep creatures out. Use of a spark arresting chimney cap (recommended) will also reduce the risk of a roof fire from floating embers.

Creosote buildup is another important thing to inspect for. Burning wood, especially green wood, results in the accumulation of creosote, a tar-like substance, inside the chimney. Creosote is flammable, and an excess build up can lead to a chimney fire. A build-up of 1/8 inch or more increases the risk of a chimney fire and should be removed.

Inspection of the chimney is best done from the bottom and the top. If you aren't comfortable climbing up on your roof to look down your chimney, you should consider hiring a professional. If after inspecting your chimney, you find that it requires service, this is work best left to a professional.
Use a mirror or lay down newspaper to look up the chimney. Use a powerful flashlight to light your view. When inspecting, look for blockages, cracks, damage and creosote build-up.

Inspect the mortar joints in brick or stone chimneys. Gaps can allow water in, which can lead to extensive damage and it can allow carbon monoxide to flow into a room in portions adjacent to living areas.

If you discover a nest in the chimney, you can try to scare away creatures by wadding up a single piece of paper and burn it in the fireplace. The smoke will be minimal but may be enough drive out any lodgers. You may be able to dislodge a blockage using a piece of lightweight PVC pipe. Be sure to use a long enough piece that it won't become lost in the chimney if you drop it. Only attempt to clear a blockage if you can do so safely and have a stable position to work from. Creosote clean-up should only be done by a professional.

Coniferous Trees:

2011-12-27T11:11:00.001-05:00

Most conifers are evergreens, or softwoods, and they produce seeds within cones.

Conifers usually have needles which they shed, but not all at once, and they remain green throughout the year. Softwoods light easily and make a good fire, but they burn fast and leave few coals.

General areas in the United States where they may be found.

Coniferous Trees:
Cedar, incense-Pacific coast; Rocky Mountain
Cedar, red-Pacific coast; Rocky Mountain; east; central
Cedar, white-northern
Cyprus-southern
Fir, balsam-Pacific coast; northern
Fir, Douglas-Pacific coast; Rocky Mountain
Fir, white-Rocky Mountain; northern
Hemlock-northern
Hemlock, western-Pacific Coast
Larch, western-Rocky Mountain
Loblolly-Southern
Pine, jack-northern
Pine, longleaf-southern
Pine, lodgepole-Rocky Mountain
Pine, ponderosa-Rocky Mountain
Pine, red-northern
Pine, shortleaf-east; central; southern
Pine, slash-southern
Pine, sugar-Pacific coast; Rocky Mountain
Pine, Virginia-east; central
Pine, white-Rocky Mountain; east; central; northern
Redwood-Pacific coast
Spruce, Englemann-Rocky Mountain
Spruce, northern-northern
Spruce, Sitka-Pacific coast
Tamarack-northern

Season Greetings

2011-12-23T11:08:00.000-05:00

Deciduous Trees:

2011-12-20T11:00:00.002-05:00

(Coniferous Trees will be posted after Christmas on 12-27-11)

Most deciduous trees are hardwoods with broad leaves which are shed in the fall. These trees remain dormant during the winter and they provide the best woods for a fire. Hardwoods burn clean and slowly and leave lots of good hot coals.

For a handy reference to the best-known hardwood and softwood trees, following is a compiled list showing the general areas in the United States where they may be found.

Deciduous Trees:
Alder, red-Pacific coast
Apple-east; central; northern; southern
Ash-east; central; southern
Aspen-Rocky Mountain; northern
Bay-tropical
Beech-east; central; northern
Birch- northern
Chestnut-east; central
Cottonwood-Pacific coast; Rocky Mountains; east, central, southern
Dogwood-east; central
Elm-east; central
Gum, black-east, central, southern
Gum, red-east; central; southern
Hickory-east; central
Locust-east; central
Mahogany-tropical
Mahogany, mountain-Rocky Mountain
Mangrove-tropical
Maple, big leaf-pacific coast
Maple, red-east; central; northern
Maple, sugar-northern
Oak-east; central; northern; southern
Pecan-southern
Poplar-east; central; southern
Sycamore-east; central
Tulip-east; central
Walnut-east; central
Willow-southern

Softwoods used for firewood...

2011-12-16T10:56:00.001-05:00

If softwoods are your only choice, your best options are Yellow Pine, Douglas Fir, and any of the Cedars.

Yellow Poplar is a poor wood for fire fuel. Though it burns and splits easily, it emits some heavy smoke and many sparks.

Southern Yellow Pine easily burns at varying heat levels and is easy to split. It emits some smoke and sparks but makes a relatively good firewood.

Douglas Fir is easy to burn and burns at a high heat level. It is easy to split and doesn't throw many sparks, but because of its smokiness Douglas Fir is just rated as a good source of fire fuel.

Cypress and Redwood are fair softwood sources of fuel. They are both somewhat easy to burn and burn at medium heat levels with some smoke and no sparks.

White Cedar or Western and Eastern Red Cedar all burn at low heat but are very easy to burn. They are easy to split, however they emit some heavy smoke and lots of sparks.

White Pine, Sugar Pine and Ponderosa Pine all easy to burn and burn at low heat levels. They are easy to burn and easy to split though they smoke some and spark a small amount.

Tamarack or Larch both burn at medium heat levels, are easy to burn and split but they both smoke and spark. They are fair sources of fire fuel, but not the best of the softwoods.

Spruce is a poor source of fire fuel because it burns at low heat, it smokes somewhat heavily and sparks considerably. Spruce wood is easy to burn and split but is not the best choice for firewood.

How to clean the glass on your stove. (always check owner’s manual first)

2011-12-13T10:50:00.000-05:00

1. Wash with ammonia **Recommended** - Make sure fire place is cool to the touch. Fill a spray bottle with a slightly diluted mixture of ammonia and water. The water helps keep the ammonia from evaporating on the glass and makes it easier to use. Some also recommend using some vinegar in the mixture, although this is not necessary.
Grab some paper towels and spray the glass. Start wiping the black or foggy glass clean. It will take a couple of times to get a clear window depending on how coated your glass is. If there are some unusually difficult spots let the solution sit and react.
Also take your ammonia and water soaked paper towel and dunk it in the ashes in the bottom of the stove. Using this to scour the glass as the ash will aid in the chemical cleaning of the glass. Wipe clean with a dry cloth.

2. Use a Commercial Cleaner- There are a variety of products on the market that can accomplish the same as ammonia. Follow directions of whatever you choose, and make sure they do not void your stoves warranty.

Is it safe to burn painted wood in your fireplace or stove?

2011-12-09T10:47:00.001-05:00

That is a very bad idea!
Burning treated lumber, petroleum products, painted wood, trash, and such, releases toxic chemicals into the atmosphere (including your home!), and could cause other damage, as well.

For example, a catalytic combustor in a wood stove can be destroyed by certain chemical agents found in these items.

Fireplaces and stoves aren't designed as incinerators, and it is neither safe nor environmentally sound to use them as such. Stick with seasoned dried firewood for your heating needs. This way you will be protecting your health, and your neighbor’s health as well.

Overall Tips & Warnings when buying and using a wood burning appliance.

2011-12-06T10:35:00.000-05:00

* Look for two labels on the appliance. One will certify that the stove meets Environmental Protection Agency emissions standards; the other will list the efficiency range and heat output in BTUs.

* Look for standard features including self-cleaning glass, hidden hinges and reversible flues, as well as
optional accessories such as fans, gold-plated accents and heat shields for walls.

* Use a certified installer.

* Read the appliance’s operating manual before building the first fire in the stove.

* Your home's air will become very dry when heated with a wood stove. Combat this with a humidifier
or by placing a kettle of water on the stove.

* Ordinances regulating wood stove use vary by city and sometimes within cities. Check the back of the
stove for the EPA certification label to see if you comply with local ordinances.

* Hire a certified chimney sweep for regular cleanings. Dirty chimneys can cause catastrophic chimney
fires.

How to select the best firewood to burn…

2011-12-01T10:29:00.002-05:00

Oak (season dried) is the best all around firewood.

Any dry hardwood will work well, but for keeping your chimney clean stay away from pine or other pine type trees that have a heavy pitch/sap content.
Oak is a favorite because it is a very dense hot burning firewood, that cuts and splits easily.

Birch also burns well, but because it is a less dense wood will burn faster (a good fire starter). Where efficiency is concerned any hard wood that is dry and you can get it cheap or free, that's what you might want to go for.
Elm and Box Elder are good, but they are hard to cut and split. They burn fine once you get it dry though.

Local saw mills will sell their trimmings (slab wood) quite cheap and it only needs to be cut to length.
So you have to factor in what your expenses are (truck, trailer, chain saw, splitter), cost of the wood, delivery, the system your using to burn it and of course your time and availability.

Catalytic wood burning stoves will deliver a longer more efficient burn, while cutting back on fuel consumption. (More heat output for less money)

What is the worst type of wood to burn?...

Unseasoned wood and wood that has high sap content are not advisable to burn in any sort of fireplace or wood stove. As for the "types", it is kind of a hard thing to nail down, since all types of wood have representatives that are good and representatives that are bad. Cottonwood is not very good stove wood. I have hear, that burning cottonwood has draw backs like, having to clean the chimney cap about once a month to prevent it from becoming obstructed by soot and creosote.

Should I burn wood with termites in it?

2011-11-29T10:12:00.001-05:00

I wouldn't choose it over nice dry clean wood.

Wood with termites in it is more likely to be either rotten or moist, having been outside for long enough to attract the critters.

As such, it will not be a good source of heat and will likely not burn well.

In addition, if you are storing termite riddled wood anywhere near your house (and I assume you do keep your firewood within easy reach of your fireplace or woodstove...) you are running the risk of introducing them to your house itself.... Need I say more?

Happy Thanksgiving Tomorrow

2011-11-23T11:56:00.000-05:00

Be smart - compare before you buy.

2011-11-18T12:57:00.000-05:00

As a consumer myself, I don't like being ripped off nor do I like a vendor giving me a lot of hype about their product. I write this article because this is exactly what I see happening to you when your shopping for a replacement catalytic combustor for your woodburning stove. Trust me, I know because I have sold catalytic combustors for 20 years to stove manufacturers, dealers, and consumers. I also know what they should sell for at reasonable prices.

I'm not talking about quality of the product, I strictly talking price. All catalytic combustors for wood burning appliances are EPA approved and have basically the same noble metal coatings. Therefore, I am not promoting any manufactures product. I just want you to beware of the so called "sale price" and other hype you see when trying to buy a replacement catalytic combustor for your wood burning appliance.

Here are just a few examples that I ran across on-line:

1. I noticed on e-Bay a seller offering combustors for a so called "special price". They say, the retail price is $163.79 and are telling the consumers they will save $45.69. I take this to mean the consumer pays $118.10. However, the manufacturer sells the same product and combustor size for $109.51.
I ask, is this a marketing tactic, hype or rip off?

2. I found a dealer advertising a big combustor sale. "Prices slashed".
So what's wrong with that?
As I studied this "big sale", I noticed they advertised only by stove model and not by combustor size. Since many combustors are the same size and interchangeable with other stoves and models, I feel the combustors should be sold for the same price.
These combustors are sold to dealers by part number and sizes, not by the stove they are used in. In other words the same size combustor should be sold for the same price. Sale or no sale.
What this store was doing, was putting special prices on their home page to lure you in, but offering deals only on combustors for stove models that don't sell and probably never will.
In fact, the stove companies these combustors were once used in, have been out of business for over 20 years.

The catch is, combustors of the same size and used in other stoves still made today, were priced at their regular price.

Don't be fooled, shop and compare before you buy. If you have a story to tell or need advise on buying a catalytic combustor for you stove, please let me know. Email- tpcork@bellsouth.net or call Applied Ceramics for honest answers.

Just the facts

2011-11-15T12:19:00.001-05:00

It's a proven fact...

Today’s catalytic wood burning appliances deliver 72% or better heating efficiency.

This means that 72% of the energy available in the wood is delivered to the surrounding living area.

In addition to the 72% heating efficiency, catalytic wood burning appliances built today will…
- they reduce air pollution by up to 90%
- they reduce creosote build-up. (up to 90% reduction)
- they generate up to 50% more useful heat from each log.
(this means longer burns per load)
- and they save the consumer up to 1/3 on their fuel cost.
(that's one less cord out of every three)

Remember:
It is important to keep the catalytic combustor in top working condition for the best efficiency of your wood burning appliance.

Important information on purchasing a replacement combustor

2011-11-11T12:47:00.001-05:00

Please remember this very important information....

Cell density (16 or 25 cpsi) plus the combustor dimensions are both very important to the stove’s operation. The combustor's size and cell density was designed into the stove by the stove's manufacturer for best performance.

Why?....

1. Open frontal area of the combustor is designed to receive the flow rate of the gases coming from the firebox.

2. The combustor’s size and cell density will control the residence time needed for the gases to burn within the combustor.

Always replace the stove’s combustor, when needed, with the original OEM combustor size and cell density for best efficiency and performance of the stove.

2011-11-08T12:24:00.000-05:00

Why use a certified chimney sweep?

2011-11-04T11:39:00.002-04:00

Wood burning systems must operate under a variety of conditions during each heating season, and these different conditions create the need for a number of maintenance tasks. Chimney cleaning is usually needed more often in the spring and fall. On the other hand, wood burning appliances operate closer to their maximum heat output during the coldest winter months, creating stress on internal components. Many of the modern wood heaters have internal components that can wear out because of their exposure to high temperatures. These components can be replaced.

One of the best ways to ensure that your wood heating system gets the maintenance it needs to be safe and effective is to hire a fully-trained professional chimney sweep. A professional sweep will clean the system top to bottom and report any problems to you. The sweep might suggest that it is time to replace the flue pipes, catalytic combustor, or door gasket and will probably be able to do the work for you when the time comes. Your wood heating retailer may also offer sweeping and maintenance services.

Know your chimney

2011-11-01T11:32:00.000-04:00

Modern, efficient appliances need modern, efficient chimneys. The selection, location and installation of the chimney is at least as important as the type of wood-burning appliance you choose. A properly designed and installed chimney will give many years of reliable service and will allow your appliance to perform properly. An effective chimney is an important part of any successful wood burning system. Many of the reported problems with the performance of wood burning appliances can be traced to chimney deficiencies of various kinds. Knowing how chimneys work is not only necessary in selecting the correct chimney and designing the installation, but is useful in the day-to-day operation of the appliance.

Chimneys operate on the principle that hot air rises because it is less dense than cold air. When a chimney is filled with hot gas, that gas tends to rise because it is less dense than air outside the house. The rising hot gas creates a pressure difference called draft which draws combustion air into the appliance and expels the exhaust gas outside. The hotter the gas compared to the air outside, the stronger the draft.

To learn more contact your local certified chimney installer and remember to check local codes.

Common causes for poor draft.

2011-10-26T11:27:00.001-04:00

Several things can cause poor draft:

1. Top of the chimney is too low, not extending above the top of the pitched roof or surrounding trees.

2. Dirt, creosote or soot lodged in corners or along the flue walls.

3. Loose mortar or cracks in the brick-work cause draft leaks.

4. Spaces between liner tiles.

5. Dislodged bricks or tile wedged in the chimney.

6. Connecting stove pipe projects too far into the chimney.

7. Chimney clean-out door too loose.

8. Leaks around chimney connector pipe.

Catalytic wood stove - Operation Do's

2011-10-21T11:24:00.000-04:00

Burn only dry, seasoned wood, not wet or freshly cut wood. Season wood at least six months; store outdoors, loosely covered, to allow air to circulate freely through the pile. "Green" or wet wood releases less heat because energy from the fire must first evaporate the moisture before producing useful heat.

Build and maintain moderately hot fires quickly after loading the wood. A hot initial fire will help your catalyst light-off faster. However, once lit, the catalyst will stay lit even if the fire burns lower. Catalyst temperatures of 1,000°F or more are typical in normal operation. Once a catalyst "lights-off," it will stay lit at temperatures of about 500°F.

Burn moderate to full loads of wood that will provide several hours of uninterrupted burning and minimize door openings. By minimizing door openings, you allow the temperatures to stay high, which reduces pollution. Frequent door openings increase pollution both inside and outside your home.

Operate your stove in the bypass mode initially (i.e., so that smoke bypasses the catalyst). Wait until the stove is hot enough before engaging the catalyst, but be careful not to overheat the stove. The reason for this is that, to some extent, the catalyst may reduce the draft. With poor draft, the fire will take longer to develop and the catalyst will take longer to light-off.

Operate the stove's internal fans, if your stove has them, in strict accordance with the operating instructions. Some manufacturers recommend leaving the fans turned off for 30 minutes after start-up and refueling, and setting them on low for small fires. This is important because fans remove heat from the fire; cooler fires result in more pollution.

Catalytic wood stove - Operation Don'ts

2011-10-18T11:14:00.001-04:00

Don't burn trash, treated wood, particle board, plywood, or other fuels (such as coal, kerosene, or lighter fluid) unless they are listed on your stove's permanent label. Trash produces fly ash. Treated wood, particle board, and plywood contain chemicals that, when burned and inhaled, are hazardous. Burning other fuels may poison your catalyst or damage your stove. Cardboard, foil, and plastic may block exhaust flow through the catalyst, causing smoke to spill into your room. Don't operate your stove in the catalyst bypass mode after the catalyst has reached the recommended temperature (350 to 600°F). At this point, your catalyst should be working for you (to produce more heat using less firewood) and for the environment (destroying smoke and the cancer-causing pollution in the smoke).

Don't over fire your stove, especially when the catalyst is engaged. Avoid catalyst temperatures near or above 1600°F. This is another reason to use a catalyst temperature monitor. Catalysts can be damaged or destroyed by prolonged high heat. If temperatures are above 1600°F, switch to bypass mode and allow the catalyst to cool down to about 1000°F before resuming normal catalytic operation. Don't open the ash pan while catalyst is engaged because this will lead to overheating.

Light-off instructions.

2011-10-14T11:01:00.002-04:00

Catalytic stoves require special firing techniques.
Instructions for these techniques will be found in the stove manufacturer's manual. If the manual for the appliance has detailed firing instructions, they should be followed. This is very important for smooth operation of the stove and to the life of the catalytic combustor.

In short, the combustor needs light-off temperature before the by-pass should ever be closed.
A temperature of 500 degrees F. must be focused on the catalytic combustor for as least 25-30 minutes before the by-pass is closed.
This will assure you that the combustor has had ample time to light-off. This is just a rule of thumb for most catalytic stoves.
Remember to read the manufacturer's manual before building the first fire in you stove or contact Applied Ceramics.

"Hot Firing" a catalytic stove.

2011-10-11T11:08:00.000-04:00

Is it all right to 'hot fire' a catalytic stove?

Do not "hot fire" your catalytic stove with the by-pass closed.
If this is done with the by-pass damper closed, flames will be directed to the catalytic combustor and cause damage to it.
For many years retailers and installers have advised customers to build an extra hot fire to burn the creosote deposits in the flue system.
This advice is harmful to a catalytic stove and the combustor.
Why not? Because the catalyst is reducing the particulate, or creosote build up, therefore the need to hot fire for this purpose is eliminated.

What to do if the combustor is not working properly.

2011-10-04T10:57:00.002-04:00

-Check your fuel supply for moisture content. Fuel should be seasoned dried wood. Rain and snow are considered moisture and will produce damp smoke and steam. Both harmful to your combustor, especially when refueling and the combustor is burning hot.

-Check the flue and chimney, making sure the stove’s exhaust system is not blocked nor has any obstructions.

-Make sure the stove is getting the proper draft.

-Check all movable stove parts to be sure they are working freely.

-Make sure the combustor has not fallen out of it’s holding device.

-Check the combustor for plugged cells. Follow cleaning instructions.

-Check if the combustor has been in the stove for more than six burning seasons, it might be time to replace it.

Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper firing. Different manufacturers and stove models require different procedures.
as a rule of thumb, the catalytic combustor needs a minimum of 500 F. temperature focused on it for a period of 20 to 30 minutes to achieve light-off.
This is done with the bypass in the open position.
Nothing but heat will be going to the combustor at this stage. The catalyst will receive the heat it needs in this period of time.

Cycles of firing

2011-09-28T10:50:00.002-04:00

Don't expect perfectly steady heat output from the fire. Wood fires burn best in cycles. A cycle is the time between the ignition of a load from charcoal and the consumption of the load back to a coal bed.

Each cycle should provide between four and eight hours of heating, depending on how much wood was used and how much heat is needed.

Plan the firing cycles around your household routine. If someone is home to tend the fire, use a short firing cycle. If you must be away from the house during the day, use the extended firing cycle.

What makes a woodstove clean burning?

2011-09-23T10:41:00.002-04:00

Wood smoke is unburned fuel, some of which accumulates in your chimney as creosote while the remainder exits the stack as smoke. The key to reducing air pollution from woodstoves is to burn fuel more completely.
Three things make a stove clean burning:
a. How it is designed.
b. How it is installed.
c. How it is operated.

Some stove manufacturers use catalytic combustors to burn fuel more completely while others use a variety of design features such as baffles, secondary combustion chambers, and introduction of secondary air.

EPA-certified stoves offer 70 to 90 percent reduction of particulate matter over the older conventional model stoves. This is based on laboratory testing.

How to achieve catalytic combustor light-off and maintain catalytic burning conditions.

2011-09-20T10:36:00.003-04:00

How to achieve catalytic combustor light-off and maintain catalytic burning conditions
When initially starting a cold stove, a medium to high firing rate must be maintained for 20 to 30 minutes. This will allow the stove, the catalytic combustor and the fuel to stabilize at a proper operating temperature.

Even though temperature can reach 600 F. within a few minutes after the fire has started, if the fire is turned down too soon to a low burning condition, it will result in the fire and/or the catalytic combustor going out.

At the end of a burn cycle, it’s possible that the amount of burning charcoal remaining might not provide sufficient temperature or fuel for the catalyst to stay lit.

During the refueling of a hot stove that has an internal temperature below 500 F., it is best to fire the stove up for 10 to 15 minutes to ensure sufficient temperature and proper amounts of volatile gases for the catalyst to operate well and efficiently.

However, when refueling a hot stove that has an internal temperature above 500 F., no re-firing is necessary.

What are the best operating temperatures for the combustor?

2011-09-16T10:20:00.002-04:00

Combustor temperatures can become extremely hot during operation.

And temperatures above 1800 degrees F. will damage the catalyst.

Temperatures between 1400 to 1600 degrees F. are normal, but temperatures between 1200 degrees F to 1400 degrees F. are recommended.

What causes thermal shock to the combustor?

2011-09-13T10:06:00.003-04:00

A sudden temperature change or uneven temperatures to the combustor's substrate can cause cracking. One of the main reasons for this happening is refueling with wood containing some form of moisture. This can be wood that has been exposed to snow or rain, or perhaps green wood that has not been stacked and seasoned for at least one year.
Thermal shock happens when the moist smoke comes in contact with the combustor running at temperatures in excess of 1000 dregrees F (540 degrees C). The cell walls will develope hairline cracks and eventually pieces will start to fall off the combustor. This loss of surface area means there will be less catalytic surface space and less efficiency of the combustor.

Getting the best life out of the catalytic combustor.

2011-09-09T09:42:00.001-04:00

The catalyst was designed to burn seasoned dried wood only. Burning garbage, painted wood, products with glue, plastic, rubber, large amounts of colored paper, petroleum products and other foreign materials will poison your unit if done on a regular basis.

Eliminate all doubt on this subject by burning ONLY SEASON DRIED WOOD.

Understanding the catalytic combustor

2011-09-06T09:00:00.002-04:00

This is the first of a series of articles on understanding the catalytic combustor a little better.

Why is flame impingement bad for the catalyst?

Direct flame contact is death to the catalyst. A catalyst burns the byproducts in the smoke. The gases such as CO, HC and O2 ignite with each other in a chemical reaction in the presence of the catalyst (while passing through the honeycomb configuration). Direct flame inhabits this reaction by changing the chemical make-up of the catalyst breaking down the substrate or ceramic. Today's modern wood burning stoves are designed so that flame impingement is unlikely. However, it is not impossible. A strong fast draft can pull the flames into the catalyst. A hot fire with all the primary air controls wide open or perhaps the firebox door or ash pan door ajar are other ways the catalyst might receive flame impingement.

Operating a Catalytic Woodburning Stove

2011-09-02T16:12:00.000-04:00

All this month will be focused on understanding a catalytic stove and the catalytic combustor inside. Let's start with some basic information and tips that will help you to have a trouble-free burning season. More detailed information will follow with each posting I make throughout the month.

Click on the article for a larger view.

Use a professional chimney sweep.

2011-08-30T14:06:00.003-04:00

Importance of a good operating chimney.

2011-08-26T13:37:00.000-04:00

Check for poor draft.

2011-08-23T13:24:00.000-04:00

Check Home Insulation and Weather Stripping.

2011-08-19T13:13:00.001-04:00

Click on the image for a larger view

Check list for wood burning appliances.

2011-08-16T11:25:00.001-04:00

Check all gasket material, the bypass damper, and on cast iron stoves, the seams, once a year; replace frayed or worn material. Re-cement the seams as necessary.

Check the catalyst gaskets and the gasket that seals the bypass mechanism.

Hint: One way to test the tightness of a gasket seal is to close the firebox door on a dollar bill. Pull gently on the dollar bill. If it pulls easily out of place, the seal isn't tight and the gasket should be replaced. Repeat this test in several locations to check the seal all around the door. Gaskets in good condition will provide an airtight seal.
A poor seal around a catalyst bypass allows smoke to pass through unburned, thereby increasing pollution.

Check the wood-loading door and the ash drawer for tightness. These two areas are subject to warp or worn gaskets. Poor fit may result in over-heating or may allow smoke to escape into the room.
Make sure the thermostat (if your stove is equipped with one) is working properly; replace as necessary. Refer to parts list in your owner's manual. A broken thermostat can prevent air inlets and dampers from opening and closing properly.

Check the flue twice a month and have it cleaned at least once a year. After cleaning, check the seals and retighten joints in the flue and to the stove. Buildup of creosote on the flue walls can re-ignite and cause fires. Tight seals and joints prevent leaks. Replace firebrick and other insulating materials when you see crumbling or if pieces are missing.
These insulating materials are critical to your stove's heating efficiency and pollution-reduction properties. Don't remove or tamper with the preset operating or temperature controls because it's against the law, it will void your stove's warranty, and it will create a safety hazard. The stove will be less efficient and more expensive to operate.

Thermostats control either primary or secondary air, or both. Tampering may ruin the precisely designed secondary combustion capabilities, resulting in lower efficiencies, higher operating costs, and greater pollution.

Don't abuse your catalyst. Don't drop or scrape the catalyst, remove the metal band (if your model has one), or use high-pressure air to clean. Don't clean the catalyst with water when it is hot and in the stove. Catalysts can be damaged, thereby reducing their effectiveness.

Combustor Cleaning Methods

2011-08-12T12:34:00.001-04:00

Cleaning Method #1

A vacuum cleaner may be used, but never use high pressured air to blow the cells free of any build-up. This can damage the cell walls. Any cell blockage can be removed with the use of a pipe cleaner or a cotton swab as well.

Method #2Should the combustor’s cells become masked with fly-ash,...use a paintbrush or soft-bristled brush and dust the combustor gently.

Never use anything abrasive to clean the combustor.

Method #3
Normally the catalytic combustor requires little or no maintenance because it generates such high temperatures, it is basically self-cleaning. However, should the combustor become masked with soot or creosote,
it is possible to burn the accumulation off by opening the bypass and building a hot fire. Once the hot fire is created, close the bypass halfway and burn for 30 to 60 minutes with the bypass left in this position.
Never use cleaning solvents to clean it.It would be wise to check and clean the combustor, if necessary, before each burning season and inspect the flue system for any signs of creosote build up.
A clean flue helps prevent chimney flue fires.

Check the combustor in your stove now.

2011-08-09T17:21:00.006-04:00

If the combustor is operating properly, leave it alone.
It should have a light gray powdery appearance (right combustor) and the cells should be free from any buildup of fly ash or creosote.

The cells should be in good condition and no large pieces of the combustor missing.
A crack in the unit does not hurt its efficiency as long as the unit is in place.

If the combustor need replaced, don't wait until it gets cold outside.

Simple check list for trouble free burning.

2011-08-05T16:43:00.000-04:00

-Check your fuel supply for moisture content. Fuel should be seasoned dried wood. Rain and snow are considered moisture and will produce damp smoke and steam. Both are harmful to your combustor, especially when refueling and the combustor is burning hot.

-Check the flue and chimney, making sure the stove’s exhaust system is not blocked nor has any obstructions.

-Make sure the stove is getting the proper draft.

-Check all movable stove parts to be sure they are working freely.

-Make sure the combustor has not fallen out of it’s holding device.

-Check the combustor for plugged cells. Follow cleaning instructions.

-Check if the combustor has been in the stove for more than six burning seasons, it might be time to replace it.

-Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper firing. Different manufacturers and stove models require different procedures.as a rule of thumb, the catalytic combustor needs a minimum of 500 F. temperature focused on it for a period of 20 to 30 minutes to achieve light-off.
This is done with the bypass in the open position. Nothing but heat will be going to the combustor at this stage. The catalyst will receive the heat it needs in this period of time.

Get ready for those cold days now.

2011-08-02T15:16:00.002-04:00

All this month I plan to post very important articles on what we should be doing now to prepare for those cold winter days ahead. Let's not wait until the last minute. Trust me on this.
I have talked with numerous stove owners over the years, who waited until the last minute only to discover their system was not working properly or they needed to clean or replace the combustor. Perhaps some of these articles will be helpful and provide you with a trouble free burning season.

Today let's start today with the flue system and draft.

Click on the article for a larger view.

Catalytic appliances save time and money

2011-07-27T14:55:00.001-04:00

A leading catalytic stove manufacturer quoted as follows:

If the consumer wants:
1. a high efficient stove (burns less wood / BTU),
2. a stove that costs less to operate (burns less wood / BTU),
3. a stove that pollutes significantly less at low and medium burn rates,
4. a stove that will easily run 10 to 12 hours on a load of wood without reloading and while not polluting.
Then a catalytic stove is a smart choice.

One complaint might be that a replacement catalyst can cost the consumer more than $200 in the larger stove models. (4 cu. ft. firebox)
Several stove manufactures have stated that a catalyst will save 5 cords of wood per heating season.
With that in mind, consider the number of cords you burn each season and the cost of a cord of firewood (you pick a cost) - say $200, $350. Naturally the cost per cord depends on where you live and the type of wood you burn. Now do some math and look at the savings.
Exactly how expensive is something that saves you more than $1,000 per season. And for those who get their firewood free, what was the cost and time required to cut it, load it, move it, store it, dry it and etc.
Point is CATALYST SAVE TIME & MONEY.

Also remember, the catalyst in a new EPA certified wood burning stove carries an EPA approved 6 year prorated warranty from the date of purchase of the appliance. The first three years are free replacements should the catalyst go bad. After the first 6 years, starting from the date the appliance was purchased, a FIRECAT replacement catalyst can be purchased (if needed) with yet another special prorated warranty.
Call Applied Ceramics for complete details or log on to appliedceramics.com and click on Hearth Products.

More facts about catalytic appliances and the combustor inside

2011-07-22T13:47:00.002-04:00

When the consumer purchases a new EPA Phase II certified wood burning appliance, they also receive in writing a six year prorated limited lifetime warranty on catalytic combustor inside their new appliance.

This EPA approved warranty assures the consumer, that the catalytic combustor in their new woodburning appliance will give years of reliable service.

Visit the Applied Ceramics website for complete details.

Proven facts about catalytic wood burning appliances

2011-07-19T13:35:00.001-04:00

Today’s catalytic wood burning appliances deliver 72% or better heating efficiency.

This means that 72% of the energy available in the wood is delivered to the surrounding living area.

In addition to the 72% heating efficiency, catalytic wood burning appliances built today will…
- they reduce air pollution by up to 90%
- they reduce creosote build-up. (up to 90% reduction)
- they generate up to 50% more useful heat from each log.
(this means longer burns per load)
- and they save the consumer up to 1/3 on their fuel cost.
(that's one less cord out of every three)

Remember:
It is important to keep the catalytic combustor in top working condition for the best efficiency of your wood burning appliance.

Remember these three basic tips if it ever becomes necessary to clean the combustor.

2011-07-13T22:41:00.003-04:00

Cleaning tip #1
A vacuum cleaner may be used, but never use high pressured air to blow the cells free of any build-up. This can damage the cell walls. Any cell blockage can be removed with the use of a pipe cleaner or a cotton swab as well.

Tip #2
Should the combustor’s cells become masked with fly-ash,...use a paintbrush or soft-bristled brush and dust the combustor gently.

Never use anything abrasive to clean the combustor.

Tip #3
Normally the catalytic combustor requires little or no maintenance because it generates such high temperatures, it is basically self-cleaning. However, should the combustor become masked with soot or creosote,
it is possible to burn the accumulation off by opening the bypass and building a hot fire. Once the hot fire is created, close the bypass halfway and burn for 30 to 60 minutes with the bypass left in this position.
Never use cleaning solvents to clean it.It would be wise to check and clean the combustor, if necessary, before each burning season and inspect the flue system for any signs of creosote build up.
A clean flue helps prevent chimney flue fires.

Creosote plugging in the combustor

2011-07-08T21:31:00.000-04:00

Creosote is a brown tar like substance which is the product of incomplete combustion of wood smoke. It results from engaging the combustor too soon or trying to operate the unit when the combustor temperature is too low.

This material must be burned off the combustor.

To burn off the creosote, put the combustor back in the stove and burn the stove at a higher than normal temperature for 30 minutes with the combustor engaged and the by-pass closed. Repeat as necessary until the material can be removed.

Note: If the combustor is coated with creosote, it is likely that the flue pipe and chimney are also coated with creosote.

Be sure to have the stove's exhaust system cleaned before operating at these higher temperatures to avoid a chimney fire.

Be sure the combustor has cooled completely before attempting to handle it again.

Removing Soot

2011-07-05T21:19:00.003-04:00

SOOT is a dark brown granular material which can result from burning off the creosote or from burning foreign materials in the stove's firebox with the by-pass closed, such as paper and cardboard.

The same cleaning procedures are used as those for cleaning fly ash.
(see 7/1/11 posting on fly ash)

Removing Fly Ash

2011-07-01T21:10:00.001-04:00

FLY ASH is the normal accumulation of light grey ash, both from combustion within the catalytic combustor and from particles carried up from the stove's fire bed. It can be removed by gently brushing with a clean, soft bristled brush or using a low suction appliance, like a vacuum cleaner.

Does the combustor have to "glow" before it is working?

2011-06-28T15:07:00.000-04:00

This is a misconception.

A catalyst can glow during certain stages of combustion. The determination that a catalyst is not working simply because it doesn't glow is inaccurate.

During the low burn cycle, when the catalyst is doing the bulk of its work, it usually does not glow.

Also, extremely dry wood (oak, ash, etc...) can burn clean enough not to produce a glow in the catalytic combustor.

Combustor operating temperatures.

2011-06-24T15:49:00.000-04:00

Combustor temperatures can become extremely hot during operation....

Temperatures above 1800 degrees F. will damage the catalyst.

Temperatures between 1400 to 1600 degrees F. are normal,

but temperatures between 1200 degrees F to 1400 degrees F. are recommended.

What is the life expectancy of a Firecat Catalytic Combustor?

2011-06-21T14:57:00.002-04:00

The life expectancy of the unit is around 12,000 hours or better.
Burning seasons, burning days and burning hours per day vary with consumers around the country. However, consumers have reported that after 10 burning seasons, the catalytic combustor in their stove was still working just fine.

It is recommended the unit be changed out every 6 years for maximum efficiency of the stove.

If you need a replacement catalytic combustor for your stove, you will find the right one for any model at: appliedceramics.com

How to get the best life out of the catalytic combustor.

2011-06-17T14:51:00.001-04:00

Getting the best life out of the catalytic combustor.

Eliminate all doubt on this subject by burning ONLY SEASON DRIED WOOD.

Why is flame impingement bad for the catalyst?

2011-06-14T14:37:00.001-04:00

This is the first of a series of articles on understanding the catalytic combustor a little better.

Why is flame impingement bad for the catalyst?

Direct flame contact is death to the catalyst. A catalyst burns the byproducts in the smoke. The gases such as CO, HC and O2 ignite with each other in a chemical reaction in the presence of the catalyst (while passing through the honeycomb configuration). Direct flame inhabits this reaction by changing the chemical make-up of the catalyst breaking down the substrate or ceramic.

Today's modern wood burning stoves are designed so that flame impingement is unlikely. However, it is not impossible. A strong fast draft can pull the flames into the catalyst. A hot fire with all the primary air controls wide open or perhaps the firebox door or ash pan door ajar are other ways the catalyst might receive flame impingement.

A close look at the Firecat catalytic combustor.

2011-06-10T15:28:00.003-04:00

Firecat combustors manufactured by Applied Ceramics are made of high temperature, honeycomb patterned, ceramic substrate. They are coated with special noble metals. The honeycomb pattern gives the combustor the surface area for the catalytic costing.

The noble metals used are palladium and platinum.

These catalytic combustors have been used by the woodstove industry since the first catalytic stoves was designed. Most catalytic stove manufacturers worldwide are still using the Firecat brand as their choice for quality and performance.

Important information about the combustor in your stove.

2011-06-07T14:24:00.002-04:00

Most catalytic combustors used in manufacturing catalytic stoves today are made of a high temperature, honeycomb patterned ceramic substrate.
They are coated with special noble metals like palladium and/or platinum.
The honeycomb pattern gives the combustor surface area for the catalytic coatings.

I would like to point out that cell density (16 or 25 cpsi) plus the combustor dimensions are both very important to both the stove’s operation and efficiency.

1. Open frontal area of the combustor is designed to receive the flow rate of the gases coming from the firebox.

2. The combustor’s size and cell density will control the residence time needed for the gases to burn within the combustor.

Always replace the stove’s combustor, when needed, with the original OEM combustor size and cell density for best efficiency and performance of the stove.

Combustor not working properly?

2011-06-04T13:47:00.000-04:00

-Check your fuel supply for moisture content. Fuel should be seasoned dried wood. Rain and snow are considered moisture and will produce damp smoke and steam. Both are harmful to your combustor, especially when refueling and the combustor is burning hot.

-Check the flue and chimney, making sure the stove’s exhaust system is not blocked nor has any obstructions.

-Make sure the stove is getting the proper draft.

-Check all movable stove parts to be sure they are working freely.

-Make sure the combustor has not fallen out of it’s holding device.

-Check the combustor for plugged cells. Follow cleaning instructions.

-Check if the combustor has been in the stove for more than six burning seasons, it might be time to replace it.

-Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper firing. Different manufacturers and stove models require different procedures.as a rule of thumb, the catalytic combustor needs a minimum of 500 F. temperature focused on it for a period of 20 to 30 minutes to achieve light-off.
This is done with the bypass in the open position. Nothing but heat will be going to the combustor at this stage. The catalyst will receive the heat it needs in this period of time.

Don't be fooled - compare before you buy.

2011-05-31T13:07:00.002-04:00

As a consumer myself, I don't like being ripped off nor do I like a vendor giving me a lot of hype about their product. I write this article because this is exactly what I see happening to you when your shopping for a replacement catalytic combustor for your woodburning stove. Trust me, I know because I have sold catalytic combustors for 20 years to stove manufacturers, dealers, and consumers. I also know what they should sell for at reasonable prices.

I'm not talking about quality of the product, I strictly talking price. All catalytic combustors for wood burning appliances are EPA approved and have basically the same noble metal coatings. Therefore, I am not promoting any manufactures product. I just want you to beware of the so called "sale price" and other hype you see when trying to buy a replacement catalytic combustor for your wood burning appliance.

Here are just a few examples that I ran across on-line:

1. I noticed on e-Bay a seller offering combustors for a so called "special price". They say, the retail price is $163.79 and are telling the consumers they will save $45.69. I take this to mean the consumer pays $118.10. However, the manufacturer sells the same product and combustor size for $109.51.
I ask, is this a marketing tactic, hype or rip off?

2. I found a dealer advertising a big combustor sale. "Prices slashed".
So what's wrong with that?
As I studied this "big sale", I noticed they advertised only by stove model and not by combustor size. Since many combustors are the same size and interchangeable with other stoves and models, I feel the combustors should be sold for the same price.
These combustors are sold to dealers by part number and sizes, not by the stove they are used in. In other words the same size combustor should be sold for the same price. Sale or no sale.
What this store was doing, was putting special prices on their home page to lure you in, but offering deals only on combustors for stove models that don't sell and probably never will.
In fact, the stove companies these combustors were once used in, have been out of business for over 20 years.

The catch is, combustors of the same size and used in other stoves still made today, were priced at their regular price.

Don't be fooled, shop and compare before you buy. If you have a story to tell or need advise on buying a catalytic combustor for you stove, please let me know. Email- tpcork@bellsouth.net

Check and clean the catalytic combustor if necessay.

2011-05-27T13:33:00.000-04:00

Normally your catalytic combustor requires little or no maintenance. Because it generates such high temperatures it is basically self-cleaning.

After the first burning the combustor should have a light gray powdery appearance. Should the combustor’s cells become masked with fly-ash, use a paintbrush or soft-bristled brush and dust the combustor gently.

Never use anything abrasive to clean the combustor. A vacuum cleaner may be used, but never use high pressured air to blow the cells free of any build-up.
Any cell blockage can be removed with the use of a pipe cleaner or a cotton swab.

Should the combustor become masked with soot or creosote it is possible to burn the accumulation off by opening the bypass and building a hot fire. Once the hot fire is created, close the bypass halfway and burn for 30 to 60 minutes with the bypass in this position.

However, it might be wise to check and clean the combustor, if necessary, before each burning season and inspect all flues for creosote build up. Cleaning the flue when necessary helps prevent chimney flue fires.

Keeping the catalytic combustor healthy.

2011-05-24T13:25:00.000-04:00

Never burn foreign matter such as…

garbage,

painted wood,

large amounts of colored paper,

cardboard,

rubber,

plastic,

paneling with glue,

oily products and so on.

Burning these materials will gradually reduce the efficiency of the catalyst.

“Burn only seasoned dried wood”

All catalytic combustors used in EPA certified Phase II stoves have a life expectancy of at least, 10,000 burning hours, when used according to the stove's operating manual. It could be said, that a catalytic combustor’s life is really based on a number of things....

-Operating the stove properly.... (Not burning with firebox door open or perhaps closing the by-pass to soon)

-Proper maintenance habits to both stove and combustor... (Simple things like checking the firebox door gasket)

-Burning proper fuel in the appliance, (This means burning seasoned dried wood only- no foreign matter that could poison the combustor)

-Using a Certified Phase II stove for home heating and not an older stove design. (most stoves built today are designed well and protect the combustor from the firebox flames, the older pre-phase I stoves didn't)

Common causes for poor draft.

2011-05-20T12:56:00.000-04:00

Several things can cause poor draft:

1. Top of the chimney is too low, not extending above the top of the pitched roof or surrounding trees.
2. Dirt, creosote or soot lodged in corners or along the flue walls.
3. Loose mortar or cracks in the brick-work cause draft leaks.
4. Spaces between liner tiles.
5. Dislodged bricks or tile wedged in the chimney.
6. Connecting stove pipe projects too far into the chimney.
7. Chimney clean-out door too loose.
8. Leaks around chimney connector pipe.

Properly designed and installed chimneys.

2011-05-17T12:52:00.000-04:00

Chimneys operate on the principle that hot air rises because it is less dense than cold air. When a chimney is filled with hot gas, that gas tends to rise because it is less dense than air outside the house. The rising hot gas creates a pressure difference called draft which draws combustion air into the appliance and expels the exhaust gas outside. The hotter the gas compared to the air outside, the stronger the draft.

To learn more contact your local certified chimney installer and remember to check local codes.

Use a certified chimney sweep.

2011-05-13T12:48:00.000-04:00

Check list for better stove performance.

2011-05-10T12:40:00.001-04:00

Check all gasket material, the bypass damper, and on cast iron stoves, the seams, once a year; replace frayed or worn material. Re-cement the seams as necessary.

Check the catalyst gaskets and the gasket that seals the bypass mechanism (if your stove has one).

Hint: One way to test the tightness of a gasket seal is to close the door on a dollar bill. Pull gently on the dollar bill. If it pulls easily out of place, the seal isn't tight and the gasket should be replaced. Repeat this test in several locations to check the seal all around the door. Gaskets in good condition will provide an airtight seal. A poor seal around a catalyst bypass allows smoke to pass through unburned, thereby increasing pollution. Like gaskets, the bypass damper and seams are areas where leaks can develop.

Check the wood-loading door and the ash drawer for tightness. These two areas are subject to warp or worn gaskets. Poor fit may result in over-heating or may allow smoke to escape into the room.
Make sure the thermostat (if your stove is equipped with one) is working properly; replace as necessary. Refer to parts list in your owner's manual. A broken thermostat can prevent air inlets and dampers from opening and closing properly.

Check the flue twice a month and have it cleaned at least once a year. After cleaning, check the seals and retighten joints in the flue and to the stove. Buildup of creosote on the flue walls can re-ignite and cause fires. Tight seals and joints prevent leaks. Replace firebrick and other insulating materials when you see crumbling or if pieces are missing.
These insulating materials are critical to your stove's heating efficiency and pollution-reduction properties. Don't remove or tamper with the preset operating or temperature controls because it's against the law, it will void your stove's warranty, and it will create a safety hazard. The stove will be less efficient and more expensive to operate.

Thermostats control either primary or secondary air, or both. Tampering may ruin the precisely designed secondary combustion capabilities, resulting in lower efficiencies, higher operating costs, and greater pollution.

Don't abuse your catalyst. Don't drop or scrape the catalyst, remove the metal band (if your model has one), or use high-pressure air to clean. Don't clean the catalyst with water when it is hot and in the stove. Catalysts can be damaged, thereby reducing their effectiveness.

Is your woodburning stove ready for the next cold season? Think about it now.

2011-05-04T18:41:00.002-04:00

Don't wait until the snow flys and the weather turn cold once again.
Now is the time to make sure your catalytic stove is in top notch order for the next burning season. Be sure to check your flue system and also make sure the stove's catalytic combustor is clean and ready to go.

All this month I will be posting articles on things that will help you be ready for the next burning season.

Ash disposal

2011-04-29T12:07:00.002-04:00

Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid.
The closed container of ashes should be placed on a non-combustible
floor or on the ground, well away from all combustible materials,
pending final disposal.
If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or
dispersed in an approved dumping area, they should be retained in the
closed container until cinders have thoroughly cooled.
Live cinders have been known to be active for more than 24 hours.

Removing ashes from the firebox

2011-04-26T11:54:00.001-04:00

When you follow the suggestions for raking of the coal bed, you will find that ashes accumulate at the front of the firebox. These ashes can be removed easily before coal bed raking in preparation for loading.

Most modern wood-burning appliances work best when a small amount of ash is removed each morning before the fire of the day is built.

2011-04-24T10:55:00.000-04:00

How to rekindle a fire from hot coals.

2011-04-22T11:18:00.002-04:00

To rekindle a fire from hot coals, rake the charcoal towards the front of the firebox where the combustion air enters. Place the pieces of wood on and behind the coals. Open the air intakes fully and leave them open until the pieces of wood are well-charred.

This illustration shows the arrangement of of logs for an extended fire.

Allow the fire to burn with bright turbulent flames until the wood is burning well. This should take about 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the size of the pieces and the moisture content of the wood. If the appliance is catalytic, this will also be ample time for the catalytic combustor to light-off. Now the by-pass can be closed and the air intakes regulated for a nice even burning fire.

Be sure to read the stove's operating manual for complete instructions.

Techniques on Fueling

2011-04-19T17:51:00.000-04:00

Techniques for fueling may vary, but shown below are the two most common.

Small pieces of wood arranged loosely in a crisscross pattern burn quickly because the combustion air can reach all the pieces at once.

Larger pieces placed compactly burn more slowly because there are fewer spaces where the air can penetrate the load.

Never add just one or two pieces of wood to a fire. Three or more pieces are needed to form a sheltered pocket of glowing coals that reflect heat toward each other and sustain the fire.

Firewood BTU Value Chart

2011-04-14T17:37:00.000-04:00

Helpful tips on buying and measuring firewood.

2011-04-08T17:19:00.001-04:00

Firewood is measured and sold in units called "cords".

A full cord measures 1.2 m x1.2 m x 2.4 m or 4 ft. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. and is the official firewood measure. However, 1.2 m (4 ft.) prices are never used for home heating.

Other terms, such as "face cord", stove cord or "furnace cord" are used to describe a stack of wood measuring 1.2 m (4 ft.) high, 2.4 m (8 ft.) long with a piece length shorter than 1.2 m (4 ft.).

The most common firewood piece length is 400 mm (16 in.), or one-third of a full cord, but other lengths are also available. These various terms and cord measures can be confusing when you are purchasing firewood. If the dealer does not price the wood in standard full cord measure, convert the price to this basic unit.

Here are some examples to illustrate the conversion...

Dealer A sells what he calls a "face Cord" for $55. You find that the pile is 4 feet high and 8 feet long, with an average piece length of 16 inches. Divide this length (16 in) into the full cord length of 48 inches and multiply by the price. 48 divided by 16 = 3 x $55 - $165.
Therefore, dealer A sells firewood for $165 per cord.

Dealer B sells what he calls a "stove cord" for $45. It is a pile measuring 4 feet by 8 feet with an average length of 12 inches. The calculation is: 48 divided by 12 = $45 = $180 per cord.

Dealer C sell a 4 foot x 8 foot x 18 inches "face cord" for $60. The results is: 48 divided by 18 = 2.66 x $60 = $159.60 per cord.

If possible, avoid buying firewood in units that cannot be related to the standard cord.

Half-ton trucks and station wagon loads are impossible to measure and can be more expensive without your knowledge.

Preparing firewood for a catalytic stove

2011-04-05T16:21:00.000-04:00

Splitting and stacking:

Splitting logs hastens drying. The key to seasoned wood is that it has been split. Splitting exposes the wet interior and increases the surface area of each piece that is to be air-dried or seasoned.

Stack split wood or small round logs to allow air circulation and leave it under cover for 10 to 12 months, if possible. This will provide the best heat yield from the wood when it is ready to use.
Remember, refueling with wood that has moisture on it or in it, will create damp smoke that shuts the combustor down once the bypass has been closed.

Storage:
It isn’t necessary to store wood in a garage because a simple covering will suffice. The idea is to keep the moisture off the wood while drying to allow proper ventilation. Store the wood away from the house, as it can become a home for insects.

Reasons for smoke spillage.

2011-03-29T04:46:00.000-04:00

A survey of households that use wood for heating showed that a large majority of users had experienced smoke spillage at least once. Smoke spillage can be reduced or eliminated through good system design and proper appliance operation.

The smell of wood smoke can be pleasant to some, but inside your home its a sign that the wood burning system is not functioning properly. The smoke contains harmful air pollutants which can be irritating or even dangerous in high concentrations. Properly designed, installed and operated wood burning systems do not spill smoke into the house.

There are three main reasons why some wood burning systems smoke:

1. Bad system design: There are design characteristics that can make a wood burning system more likely to spill smoke. Most of these characteristics result in low flue temperaature and low draft. Outside wall chimneys and long flue assemblies before exhaust reach the chimney are just a couple.

2. Extreme negative pressure in the house: Energy efficiency practice and new building code rules are making our houses more and more air tight. This makes the house energy efficient, but also makes them sensitive to depressurization when air is exhausted from the house. Other exhaust appliances used in the house can cause extreme negative pressure in the house when they are operating.

3. Improper woodstove firing technigue: When a wood fire is starved for air it smolders, producing a relatively cool, smoky fire. The temperatures throughout the system are low. During a smoldering fire, the chimney will not be receiving the hot gas it needs to produce strong draft.

And remember, when refueling first open the by-pass before opening the firebox door.

Important tips on firing a catalytic stove.

2011-03-25T04:07:00.000-04:00

Catalytic stoves require special firing techniques. Instruction for these techniques will be found in the stove manufacturer's manual. If the manual for the appliance has detailed firing instructions, they should be followed. This is very important for smooth operation of the stove.

In short, the combustor needs light-off temperature before the by-pass should ever be closed.

A temperature of 500 degrees F. must be focused on the catalytic combustor for as least 25-30 minutes before the by-pass is closed. This will assure you that the combustor has had ample time to light-off. This is just a rule of thumb for any catalytic stove. Remember to read the manufacturer's manual before building the first fire in you stove or contact Applied Ceramics.

Rule of thumb for starting a cold woodburning stove.

2011-03-21T04:27:00.000-04:00

As a rule of thumb, when starting a fire in a cold stove, the combustor must have 500 o F. of temperature focused on it for 20 to 30 minutes to achieve proper light-off.
The by-pass should be in the open position during this period of time.
This will allow the stove, the catalytic combustor and the fuel to stabilize at a proper operating temperature.

Even though temperature can reach 600 o F. within a few minutes after the fire has started, if the fire is turned down too soon to a low burning condition, it will result in the fire and/or the catalytic combustor going out.

At the end of a burn cycle, it’s possible that the amount of burning charcoal remaining might not provide sufficient temperature or fuel for the catalyst to stay lit.

During the refueling stage, if the stove’s firebox has an internal temperature below 500 o F., it is best to fire the stove up for 10 to 15 minutes.
This will provide increased temperature and proper amounts of volatile gases for the catalyst to operate efficiently.

However, when refueling a hot stove that has an internal temperature above 500 o F., no re-firing is necessary.

Refer to the manufacturer's stove operating manual for complete details.

Woodstove Humor

2011-03-16T03:56:00.000-04:00

What actually is a wood burning appliance by definition?

2011-03-11T03:06:00.003-05:00

Definition:

Wood stove or heater…
Wood heater means an enclosed, wood burning appliance capable of and intended for space heating or domestic water heating that meets all of the following criteria:

An air-to-fuel ratio in the combustion chamber averaging less than 35-to-1 as determined by the test procedure performed at an accredited laboratory, like Omni.

A usable firebox volume of less than 0.57 cubic meters (20 cubic feet);

A minimum burn rate of less than 5 kg/hr (11 lb/hr) as determined by the test procedure prescribed in §60.534 of the U.S. EPA Federal Register and performed at an accredited laboratory;

A maximum weight of 800 kg (1,760 lb). In determining the weight of an appliance for these purposes, fixtures and devices that are normally sold separately, such as flue pipe, chimney and masonry components that are not an integral part of the appliance or heat distribution ducting, shall not be included.

Installation of a new EPA-certified Catalytic Stove

2011-03-08T03:01:00.001-05:00

Improper installation of your woodstove can result in a house fire or cause greater pollution.
If a stove isn't installed properly, it can also affect the draft of the stove. Proper draft is very important in reducing pollution and maintaining high efficiency. Before having your stove installed, be sure to check with local authorities regarding building codes and permits, and notify your fire insurance company.

Below are a few tips that address the importance of proper installation:

1. By using a certified installer, they can determine the proper draft of your stove, make sure all the seals are tight, and ensure that your stove is installed with all safety measures necessary.

2. They will be able to make sure proper flue size and installation is being used.

3. They will make sure that the draft system seals are as tight as possible to prevent smoke from leaking into your house and to contribute to good draft.

Contact your local certified wood stove installer for complete details.

Again, this is very important for your safety and comfort.

Wood Burning and Global Warming

2011-03-04T02:53:00.000-05:00

We hear so much about the need to reduce the production of the so-called greenhouse gases.

When their atmospheric concentration increases, these gases, mainly carbon dioxide, cause the average global temperature to rise with potentially disastrous results.

Fuel burning is the main cause of the increased levels of atmospheric carbon dioxide.

Wood, however, differs from the fossil fuels such as oil and gas because it is a renewable fuel.

As a tree grows, it absorbs carbon dioxide from the air and stores it in the wood as carbon. This carbon makes up about half of the weight of wood.

When wood is burned, carbon dioxide is released again to the atmosphere. The same amount of carbon dioxide would be released if the tree died and were left to rot on the forest floor. Our forests can be a perpetual source of fuel, provided they are cared for and managed properly.

Why does the U.S. EPA regulate and certify woodstoves?

2011-03-01T02:38:00.000-05:00

Residential woodstoves are one of the nation's largest sources of particulate matter (smoke). Woodsmoke also contains significant amounts of carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons, and many other organic compounds. These pollutants are known to cause respiratory and cardiovascular illness and contribute to atmospheric visibility problems and property damage. The EPA regulations require woodstove manufacturers produce stoves that emit less pollution. As consumers replace their older woodstoves with cleaner, more efficient, new stoves, the quality of the air will improve. Particularly in residential neighborhoods where wood burning stoves are popular.

Be sure and ask your local stove dealer about the high efficient, clean burning woodstoves.

EPA-certified stove labels. Read them before buying your appliance.

2011-02-25T02:17:00.001-05:00

All certified woodstoves offered for sale will have a permanent and a temporary label indicating that the stoves are EPA-certified. The temporary label will also contain information that you will find useful when shopping for a new stove.

The label will tell you generally how clean and how efficient each woodstove is. However, because regulations require all new stoves to burn much cleaner and more efficiently than unregulated woodstoves, there should not be significant differences in efficiency and emissions performance among the certified catalytic models. This holds true for the non-catalytic models as well.

The label will also indicate which stoves are equipped with catalytic combustors.
Be a smart shopper and compare labels before buying.

Information on the labels will help you when selecting a stove for your needs. Its heat output range or its efficiency. Use this information to help select the right size stove for the space you will be heating.

Sample labels:

EPA-certified catalytic stoves save us money?

2011-02-22T02:06:00.003-05:00

For example, if you have a typical unregulated stove and use three cords of wood (at $100/cord) and have three chimney cleanings (at $50 each) per season, you can save about $200 per season by purchasing a new EPA-certified catalytic appliance.

If the new stove is catalytic, you will save an additional cord of wood out of every three cords you burn each season.

(see my 1/18/11 posting on:
"What advantages are provided by a Firecat™ combustor?"

Your actual savings will vary according to how often you use your stove and other factors.

Nationwide, the net savings from reduced firewood consumption and fewer chimney cleanings is estimated to be $30 million annually. In addition, the health and welfare benefits resulting from fewer smoke-related illnesses and from reduced materials damage is estimated at about $1.5 billion annually.

What Happens When Wood Burns? Article 3 of 3

2011-02-18T01:38:00.000-05:00

This is the third of three articles posted on the above subject.

1. Evaporation of water. Posted 2/11/11

2. The emission of smoke. Posted 2/15/11

3. The charcoal phase.

The charcoal phase:

As the fire progresses and most of the gases and tars have vaporized out of the wood, charcoal remains. Charcoal is almost 100% carbon and burns with a red glow and very little flame or smoke. Charcoal is a good fuel that burns easily and cleanly when enough oxygen is present.

What Happens When Wood Burns? Article 2 of 3

2011-02-15T01:33:00.000-05:00

This is the second of three articles on the above subject.

1. Evaporation of water. Posted 2/11/11

2. The emission of smoke.

3. The charcoal phase. To be posted 2/18/11

The emission of smoke:

As the wood heats up above the boiling point of water, it starts to smoke. The smoke is visible result of the decomposition of the solid wood as it vaporizes into a cloud of combustible gases and tar droplets.

The smoke will burn if the temperature is high enough and oxygen is present. When the smoke burns, it produces the bright red flames that are characteristic of wood combustion.

If smoke does not burn in the firebox, it will exit the appliance and into the chimney where it will either condense forming creosote deposits or be expelled as air pollution. Unburned smoke represents an efficiency loss because it contains a large part of the total energy in the wood.

However, catalytic stoves with the use of a catalytic combustor, burns this smoke before it is expelled as air pollution and burns it as a fuel to produce heat that can be 2-3 times hotter than the firebox temperature. This also gives a higher efficiency out of the stove.

At the same time, the catalytic combustor will burn up to 90% of the creosote contained in the smoke. (Read more about this in earlier articles I have posted)

What Happens When Wood Burns? Article 1 of 3

2011-02-11T01:28:00.000-05:00

This is the first of three articles that I will be posting on the above subject.

1. Evaporation of water

2. The emission of smoke To be posted 2/15/11

3. The charcoal phase To be posted 2/18/11

Evaporation of water:
Up to half the weight of a freshly cut log is water. After proper seasoning the water content is reduced to about 20 percent. As the wood is heated in the firebox, this water boils off, consuming heat energy in the process. The wetter the wood, the more heat energy is consumed.

That is why wet firewood hisses and sizzles and is hard to burn, while properly seasoned woo innites and burns easily.

Re-fueling with wet or unseasoned wood in a catalytic stove will send moist smoke to the catalytic combustor and cause the combustor to stop working. It will cause the stove to struggle and not operate properly. In addition re-fueling with wet or unseasoned wood and operating the stove with the by-pass closed, can cause damage to the catalytic combustor.

What makes a woodstove clean burning?

2011-02-08T01:00:00.001-05:00

Wood smoke is unburned fuel, some of which accumulates in your chimney as creosote while the remainder exits the stack as smoke. The key to reducing air pollution from woodstoves is to burn fuel more completely.

Three things make a stove clean burning:
a. How it is designed.
b. How it is installed.
c. How it is operated.

Some stove manufacturers use catalytic combustors to burn fuel more completely while others use a variety of design features such as baffles, secondary combustion chambers, and introduction of secondary air.

EPA-certified stoves offer 70 to 90 percent reduction of particulate matter over the older conventional model stoves. This is based on laboratory testing.

Cleaner Burning Tips....

2011-02-04T18:42:00.002-05:00

Click on the picture for larger image.

Density of some common firewoods.

2011-02-01T18:32:00.000-05:00

Here is a list of the tree species commonly used for firewood.

Those at the top of the list are hardest and those toward the bottom of the list are the softest:
Ironwood
Rock elm
Hickory
Oak
Sugar maple
Beech
Yellow birch
Ash
Red elm
Red maple
Tamarack
Douglas fir
White birch
Manitoba Maple
Red alder
Hemlock
Poplar
Pine
Basswood
Spruce

Selecting the right type of wood to burn.

2011-01-28T18:20:00.001-05:00

Hardwoods or Softwoods?

Softwoods like fir, spruce, and pine are less expensive than hardwoods. Softwoods are easier to ignite and burn rapidly with a hot flame.
If you want a quick-warming fire that will burn quickly, softwoods are your best choice. However, if you’re a serious wood burner using a catalytic wood burning stove, hardwoods are the best choice.
Hardwoods such as oak and birch provide a longer-lasting fire with a shorter flame.
A mixture of softwoods and hardwoods can be used for easy starts and long lasting burns.
All woods should be season dried before burning in order to provide the cheapest, cleanest, and safest fire.

Note: Never burn rubbish, chemically treated wood such as discarded railroad ties, utility poles, and old yard fences. All emit poisonous fumes and could add to those materials that collect in the chimney, increasing the possibility of a chimney fire.

Note: Never burn coal in your catalytic stove. Never burn artificial or manufactured logs, which are composites of sawdust, chips, colorful chemicals, starch binders, and wax.
They might do harm to the catalytic combustor.
“Burn only season dried wood”

Don't poison the catalytic combustor in your woodburning appliance?

2011-01-25T18:09:00.000-05:00

The catalyst was designed to burn seasoned dried wood only. Burning garbage, painted wood, product with glue, plastic, rubber, large amounts of colored paper, petroleum products and other foreign materials will poison your unit if done on a regular basis.

Eliminate all doubt on this subject,
BY BURNING ONLY SEASON DRIED WOOD.

What assurance do I have the catalytic combustor will last in my E.P.A. certified stove?

2011-01-21T17:58:00.000-05:00

You will be given a prorated limited lifetime warranty from Applied Ceramics which states, Applied Ceramics warrants to the consumer who purchases a Firecat Versagrid catalytic converter as a component in an E.P.A. certified solid fuel appliance, to replace at no charge to the consumer the Versagrid catalytic converter that ceases to function within three (3) years from the date of purchase by the original consumer, providing we receive a dated copy of the original bill of sale for the stove, along with the original Firecat catalytic converter. Applied Ceramics also offers special prorated prices on the converter for the 4th, 5th and 6th years of the stove's life if ever needed.
We couldn't make this offer, if we had doubts about the longevity of the unit.

What advantages are provided by a Firecat™ combustor?

2011-01-18T17:50:00.001-05:00

90% LESS POLLUTION* - Gases and particles in smoke cause air pollution. The combustor eliminates 90% of this pollution by burning these gases and particles before they exit the stove.
90% LESS CREOSOTE* - Condensation of smoke in chimneys and flues creates creosote build up which is the primary cause of chimney fires. The combustor reduces this danger because it burns most of the smoke and reduces creosote accumulation as much as 90%.
However, you should continue to inspect your chimney regularly for safety.
* Performance may vary depending on stove design, operation and combustor age.